Diari de Bitacora, Alken Prima 4, Joji island

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Mangroves and beach in diminute Joji island.

Dia lent en que actualitze els diaris fins que arrivem a la mini illa de Joji, 500m en front del poble de Besui.

Veig molts dofins jugant en les ones creades pel vaixell! fotos xules.

La ridicula illa de Joji serveix de moll d’aigua profunda per a la, també xicoteta, població de Bisui, al sud de Halamehra. Que tinga profunditat insiga en front s’un poble sense coneecció per carretera explica que hi parem. El passatge desembarca i jo inicie l’exploració del xicotet troç de terra, aproximadament circular, i d’uns 200m de diametre.

M’endinse en la espessa selva. Sóc super feliç de ser-hi allà, de tindre la possibilitat d’arribar a aquest inesperat unlikely lloc, com si fos una cosa que hagera de fer des de que era nano.

Continue baix la vegetació  fins que trobe un bosquet de manglars on lacals estan omplint sacs d’arena coralina. Els ajude a transportar a les barquetes insecte i a posar les barquetes a l’aigua.

Allà faig la circumferència a la duminuta illa, deu prendre uns 10-20min, ple de pardals, pexos que caminen sobre l’aigua, corals rojos, restes de 2 vaixells trencats, i vistes magnífiques. No cocoters però.

Em sente a la mar i uns mini crustacis començen a menjar als talls que tinc als peus. Fan molt de mal quan se’t mengen la carn viva i no faig bones fotos del procès. Txs, massa sang i dolor per concentrar-se.

Nade i vaig al vaixell, passem la nit allà.

Noha, de la tripulació, que aarla anglès em diu que em parec a Jesús per 6é cop, m’hauria d’afaitar 😛

Nade i torne al vaixell. Sopar i dormir.

Borneo diaries Days 24 & 25, Biduk-Biduk, BidukBiduk, Biduk Biduk, beach hidden paradise, east Kalimantan, not in lonlyplanet :D

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I’ll indulge and write this in English because it has to be shared with the world! Catalans are not enough to conquer this :P.

There is no way in which I can overstate how perfectly beach paradise Biduk-Biduk is, and I been in Majorca, Menorca, Guadaloupe, Tenerife, Nicaragua pacific coast, Phu Quok island, Vietnam coast. The fact that I just met it without expecting it might bias me, but still there is no way I can exaggerate using mere words and photos.

Where to start? lone trees hundreds of meters inside the sea? that’s a peculiar image, but it is just part of the turquoise cristal waters touching long white coral beaches, that at low tide are hundreds of meters wide (thus explaining the trees). Around 40km of tall coconut trees beach road. Villagers fantastically smiling, helpful, eager to interact, living in beach houses with grass lawns perfectly trimmed by the cows and goats that wander around. Beach cows. Evening mixed gender volleyball.

That’s the general 40kms image, broken only by some mangroves forests that extend on the beach, specially on the coast facing east. That makes it even more interesting on high tide as you have unique forested beaches with fresh/salt water mix, and walking tree climbing fish that jump over the water! yes, you entered a nature documentary.

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If that’s not good enough there are beauty spots, local attractions and 3 small islands (from Teluk Sulaiman to Sugeindin pulau; a group of 7 Indonesians paid 150k rupiah per person 3h excursion), this would keep you entertained!

These spots include 2 or 3 medium sized rivers with complete transparent cool fresh water (the first wide river with clear waters that I see get to the sea!). One of which, Labuan Cermin (pronounced labuan jambir) has a boat service (quite expensive I heard) that drives you to a turquoise lake that has a top layer of fresh cool water and a bottom layer of salt warm water. That’s supposed to be the main attraction here, but I saw no tourist there 🙂

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Other attractions include what can be seen on the map. Accessible are the rocks beach (pantai batu dua), literary 2 rocks beach, and Labuan Cermin harbour, full of delightful fishing vessels and cristal waters. You can do long walks, get a bicycle or moto (I still don’t know how, my host simply offered me a motorbike but I took the bicycle :D) or hitch a ride, really easy to do with the locals eager to help you.

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The roads are well paved and virtually flat! And the tidal beach has so fine sand and so compact that you can ride your bicycle in there (but still becomes tiring after few kms). Seeing the fast running crabs moving fast as you pas has no price 😀

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For the southern spots there is need of transport because the road is not paved, but mostly because of the lack of transport to hitchhike and long distances to walk. I guess there are no villages, or only few on that road. The road is not signaled at all. The coordinates of the entrance are:
1.173659 118.76805

I didn’t have the time to explore the waterfalls and cave, but I figure it would be close to impossible to find without a guide as there is no signaling… Something fun discovering 😉
This area is surrounded by sizeable mountains, 400m tall at least, so there is also a hike to be done!

There are at least 5 or 6 accommodations that I could see, stretched for few kms (hotels, losmen, guesthouses, homestays). I don’t know the prices as I planed to camp but was invited to a policeman house :). It shall be local price as the only tourism that I seen seems Indonesian (all the tourism in I’ve seen 3 days amounts to just one lone traveler, the 7 people group and 2 girls taking pictures). The info and signs are only in Indonesian, except for few “welcome”.

If still the accommodation is over budget you can hang your hammock in between 2 coconut trees, or if it rains, camp anywhere, or pick an empty or in construction house. Or just like me, law of solo travelers, let things happen and you might get hosted by a local 😀

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But not all is perfection in paradise, few things missing:

Hammocks! There are non, a beach paradise without hammocks is not complete, but that has easy solution (specially when I’m carrying one :D).

Backpackers community. That might seem like a good thing but there is plenty of room to be alone if you wish, so having someone interesting to talk with (backpackers usually are) would be a good distraction. Also backpackers means books! and books are the best company in this environment.

-There are not many activities. The most engaging that I did involve peeling one or two dozens of coconuts, teaching kids English, climbing sea trees, teaching kids how to swim, selecting and unloading landsat fruit from cargo ships, fishing with a hook and swimming with kids in between the cargo boats. Last but not least, hitchhiking a boat to Sulawesi (the reason I came here, more on that on the next post 🙂

Despite these, and being aware that they are not everyday activities for many, extra distractions by fellow travelers are welcomed, specially for long stays. That’s why I’m writing this, this place could easily be a backpacker paradise 😀

Internet. On the no distractions side, there is no internet connection trough 3G, although there might be some internet cafe, ask around but don’t expect high speed… I did get 1G in certain areas for a working instant message (text only) communication.

English . Don’t expect anybody to speak more than few words in English if at all 🙂

Trash collection. The trash on the floor is not widespread luckily, but you do spot it here and there.

Transport. As far as I’ aware there is nothing like a bus, and the road connecting here to Tanjung Redeb (the closest city) is not even in google maps (but it is on openstreetmaps for most of the track). It is quite bad for the first 100kms or so. I Hitchhiked here the 250kms in 6 or 7h. If you have your own transport this is an ideal destination. And it might be that there are some boats to Tarakan, but I’m not sure.

-No easy swimming at the afternoon. In the equinoxes the tide is maximum and minimum in the equator, specially in new moon.That means that for low tide (afternoon to evening) the water is hundreds of meters from the shore. It’s a nice walk with plenty of sea life (fish, running and burring crabs, sea stars), but the hard noon equatorial sun reflected on the white sand has no clemency. Still the morning and evening swims are amazing, and you can get yourself in one of the rivers for noon, or simply nap on a coconut tree shadow.

Known future. I don’t see risk of any big development threatening this parts, but nature might. I seen plenty of spots where is clear that storms are eating the coast, therefore some stones and concrete barriers are being build affecting the beauty but protecting the road and houses. I don’t know how fast the destruction is but at some point this is meant to look different.

All in all it’s so amazing that I could not stop greening for hours realizing how luckily I was to be there.

Diaris de borneo, dia 24, paradis al final de la pluja

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The more you Travel, the more you survive, the stronger you feel. But you can’t let that feeling get over you.

Plou, crec que des de que he arrivat a Borneo totes o quasi totes les nits a plogut.

M han convidat a quedar-me a la NGO Yoakob tan de temps com vulga. Em tempta la idea, tant que decidisc anar-me’n quan la pluja finalment para un poc. Kalimantan realmet atrapa.

Mr. W, el professor d’anglès/agricultor ha vingut mentre esperava que la pluja passara i m’ha dut una botella d’aigua, un desdejuni i pastes. Quan para la pluja em conduix 20km fins a una intersecció on comence l’autostop.

Estic provant un mètode nou per l’autoestop, al mateix temps que alce el polce, meneje amunt i avall l’altra ma. No sé  sí es casualitat però el 1r cotxe para. Una família. Uns 40km més en una carretera prou destruïda. Em paren i el 2n cotxe em para. És en Bayan que parla un poc d’anglès i per sort per a mi té la dona a 4h de camí. Cada cap de setmana fa el camí i hui m’ha arreplegat. Sort perquè de les 3h de camí restant 2h30min plou molt fort. És curiós conduir per una carretera prou mala, en molta pluja, i on les lianes poden xocar en el teu cotxe.

Bayan escolta reagee i ska (indonesi)! És de java però el pare fa 30anys que està ací i ell 20, perquè es guanya millor la vida. Pel que m’ha comentat altres Java, tot i ser mes poblada i desenvolupada, és més pobre. Deu ser que la redistribució de recursos és molt desigual, com a l’Europa del s.XIX i per tant hi ha emigració  a les “colonies” (les illes grans menys poblades).

Esperant en el taller un camió ple de restes de palmeres va en la mateixa direcció i m’arreplega, per deixar-me pocs kms endavant, plou un poc.

Camine prou fins que una moto m’agafa i em du 40km.
Després no passa ningú per prou fins que el 1r camió em du fins prop de Biduk-Biduk.

Paradís.

Cap cosa que diga podrà exagerar com de paradisiac aquest lloc és! Kilòmetres i kilòmetres de cocorers alineats davant d’una plaja enorme, blanca, d’aigües turqueses que en marea baixa l’aigua retrocedeix centenars de metres.
2 notes, hi ha arbres solitaris en meitat de la mar, centenars de metres endins, i les casetes i cocoters estàn a jardinets en gespa perfectament tallada per baques i cabres.

Un home i el seu net que els faig una foto em duen uns kms, i una camioneta feta pols però molt inspiradora em du fins un port natural en la desenvocadura d’un riu. Allà em diuen que no hi ha vaixells per  Sulawesi, però  que a un port a 20km hi ha.

A la 1a moto que passa em fa el favor, crec, de conduir-me els 20km fins on estàn els vaixells.

Allà  primer em diuen que no anirà a Sulawesi fins d’ací una setmana! Way too much!! després que en 3 dies un vaixell anirà, estem a dilluns, em diuen que el dimecres o dijous. Bé si és el dimecres puc esperar, després de tot anar a la següent ciutat em costara 3 dies com a mínim…

Em vaig fent un plà al meu cap. Done voltes pel camí  rodejat de cases i veig un parell de llocs on ouc pasar la nit. A més el 1r està a prop d’uns banys públics i llocs per menjar.

Quan torne al lloc per menjar per llegir o escriure un poc un home em crida que m’unisca a ells. Tenen un anglès bàsic, ell i el seu amic que són policies. Em pregunten el tipic i quan dic que dormiré al ras l’home em convida a sa casa. M’ho pense un poc i accepte.

A la seua comunitat familiar (no es pot dir casa, són 6 cases on viuen la majoria dels seus 10 germans i els pares, dabant de la preciosa plaja en arbres a la mar i cocoters ). Em conta que són de nord Sulawesi i que estàn ací fa molts anys.

El més interessant és que quan li dic que busque l’aventura, em comenta que ell va anar a Lagos en nigeria en una data que no entenc (pot ser fa poc o fa més de 30 anys). Va estar un any treballant com a operador de maquinària en una mina de carbó al centre de Nigèria! molt interessant.

A més l’home sap de l’indepenència de Catalunya i algunes paraules en Castellà (señorita :), quasi tots els equips de primera de la lliga de Fútbol espanyola, com també política internacional i les capitals de països de sud america i Àfrica ! Home il·lustrat.

Altres amics i/o família  estàn ací però cap parla anglès. Sopem peix i arròs (curiosament molta gent està preocupada per si puc menjar arròs o no) i dorc al rebedor.

Hui la nit és clara, cel estrel·lat.